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The 2006 Inaugural
VanIsle 1200
by E. W. (Wim) Kok
Introduction
There
were several 1200+ K rides on the 2006 international randonneur
agenda; I selected the VanIsle 1200, a ride which would mainly
follow the east side of Vancouver Island. Except for the section
north of Campbell River, I was quite familiar with most of the
area. I had cycled a few VI brevets over the years and in the
seventies we spent a few years working in and around Port Alberni,
an area west of Parksville. This brevet also offered a format
that I knew quite well: minimal support, which means that you're
mostly on your own. That's also the story of the brevets in the
region where I ride. The difference is that at the VanIsle 1200
there are other riders. A few days before the event started we
arrived in Victoria and we stayed with friends. Since Larry is
an avid cyclist, he and I explored and 'inadvertently' cycled
parts of the route, a very memorable warm-up. On registration
day there was a thorough bike-check, as well as a pre-ride dinner
at the Bleathering Place. Great choice to meet, greet and eat.
When that was over, 35 riders and many volunteers retired to
get ready for the big one. So here's my account of the experience,
marbled with a few observations and musings.
Day 1: Victoria - Campbell River (382
km)
The
day was barely a few hours old, when I was cycling to the Oak
Bay Marina. After we received our control cards and a
few words from Ken Bonner, we moved to the actual start. The
count-down in down-town Oak Bay was as quiet as the neighbourhood
itself: very!! At 3:00 am we set out neutral through urban and
sleepy Victoria. We cycled along the harbour front, past the
Legislative Buildings, and then to the ocean front. We heard
waves breaking and crashing on the rocks. The waves released
their energy and inspired us to the same with our pent-up energy.
And we did. The pace went up considerably. The speed devils took
over, after all we only had 1200 clicks to go. I must admit that
for awhile I was also hanging near the front.
There is always a
bit of anxiety in the beginning of a ride, especially when it
is dark and there are almost as many turns on the route sheet
as on the London-Edinburgh-London brevet. Getting lost is the
main concern. Needless to say that everyone tries to hang on
for dear life. In the end the route sheet proved to be pretty
easy to follow. In rapid succession we reached the first four
controls Ten Mile Point (Km 25.4 @ 4:04 am), Sydney
(Km 56.8 @ 5:18 am), Swartz Bay (Km 64.1 @ 5:37
am) and Saanichton (Km 81.8 @ 6:25 am), before
we arrived at the Royal Oak Mall (Km 98.1 @ 7:02
am). The first 100 km had been a fast-paced opener, but at this
control the fast riders split and continued without a break.
Knowing that the Malahat would be our first major obstacle, a
break was the right choice for me at that time. Ken Myhre, Maurice
Smith, Michael Koth and I then resumed the ride. When we showed
up at the foot of the Malahat, Michael and I maintained our manageable
pace, that is we let  those with faster manageable paces go
up first. We followed. The Malahat is not an onerous climb, although
Vancouver Islanders and Flatlanders may think so. Anyone who
has cycled elsewhere knows where the challenging climbs are.
The south side of the Malahat consists of three climbs, interspersed
with flatter sections. On the way up there are magnificent panoramas
of the Saaanich Peninsula. What a treat. We stopped to appreciate
the grandeur of the landscape. The descent was one long plunge
along the north side into Mill Bay (Km 140.7 @
9:33 am), which fortunately was off the main highway. The ride
along the placid bay was a real treat. We turned briefly on and
off the main highway and via secondary roads and a steep downhill
made it into picturesque Cowichan Bay (Km 156.3
@ 10:20 am). We had more than 4 hours in hand by now. At the
"The Udder Guy's" Ice Cream store we sampled some wares
and got our cards signed. More secondary roads led us through
the beautiful back country with its small farms and vineyards
near Cherry Point.
At
Maple Bay (Km 170.2 @ 11:09 am) we answered the
question on our card and made it to Chemainus (Km
187.5 km @ 11:55 am) to record the details of the old logging
locomotive. By now it was time for lunch, which consisted of
soup and sandwiches. We must have spent about an hour here before
we went to Cedar (Km 216.4 @ 1:52 pm). Here we
recorded Anno Domini 1885 as the year in which the Wheat Sheaf
Pub was established. Too soon we were back on the Island Highway,
leaving behind a very pretty section of the Island. During a
short stop in Nanaimo (Km 228.9 @ 2:35 pm) we glanced
at a newspaper. While both of us confessed to never reading horoscopes,
we did look at what ours had to say that day. Mine indicated
that when tackling big jobs (interpretation: cycling the VanIsle
1200), it is wise to divide it in manageable portions. I did
heed that call and decided to go for three overnight sleeps instead
of two. After I shared these findings, Michael consulted his.
He was advised to regularly work on his love relationship. As
a result he was faithfully text messaging with his girlfriend
back home in Germany. Consulting the horoscope had two effects:
(1) I arrived feeling rather fresh at the finish line; (2) Monica's
responses to Michael provided him with positive support. In one
case the remaining distance of some 40 km to a control was put
in perspective with "Fuer Dich is das nur eine Katzensprunge."
('For you that is a cinch', literally a 'cat jump').
The
road to Parksville took us out of never ending Nanaimo and again
along the Island Highway, the least attractive section of the
route (traffic-wise that is). In Qualicum Beach
(Km 272.8 @ 4:45 pm) we connected with Melissa Friesen and Scott
Gater. Through teamwork we made it in very good time to Courtenay,
where we enjoyed a meal. Using the same cooperation we hurried
further along and made it just before dark to Campbell
River (Km 382.3 @ 10:05 pm). While I had contemplated
to reach Sayward Junction that night, Michael's plan to stay
in Campbell River, the astrologer's advice, the early morning
Victorian start, and the thought of cycling in the dark for another
65 km were enough excuses to rationalize staying in Campbell
River. A shower, food and a good sleep came just at the right
time. We had covered 382 km in 19 hours, an average of 20 kph,
including all the breaks.
Day 2: Campbell River - Port Hardy -
Woss (339 km)
By 4:00 am we were on the road again. We began
with a long steady climb to get across the Island's spine, not
bad when one takes it with fresh legs. At the Roberts Lake
rest stop (Km 414.4 @ 5:29 am) we counted picnic tables for the
record and shortly before seven we rolled into Sayward
Junction (Km 446.9 @ 6:55 am) to enjoy a good breakfast.
We noted a real change in weather here. Weather maps from preceding
days showed, that there is a marked change in temperature patterns
once you're past Sayward Junction. The West Coast/Pacific influence
was definitively noticeable. The terrain appeared rougher, the
climate colder and wetter. So far we had enjoyed the warmth of
the sheltered east coast. Soon after we had to climb a bit more,
actually quite a bit more. A pick-up truck with a boat trailer
roared past us. A little later we roared past the same pick-up,
not as fast though. Actually quite slow, since we went uphill
It was parked along the road with a lame trailer. One of its
wheels had come off and disappeared at great speed somewhere
into the dense bushes. The driver and passenger were trying to
find the missing wheel. Upon arriving in Woss (Km
512.7 @ 11:16 am), I first booked a room for that night. I figured
 that
our return it would be pretty late. Michael and I enjoyed a good
lunch. We were barely on the road again, when we met Ken Bonner
returning from Port Hardy. He was already at Km 721.1 and more
than 200 km ahead of us! We chatted for a few minutes, and then
continued along what I later dubbed the "fish and chips"
road. This on account of the tractor trailers with fish, fish
products, pulp chips as well as logging trucks. While the fish
transports generally made wide passes, the same could not be
said for some of the local logging trucks. It appeared that some
made it a game to pass as closely as possibly in situations where
there was absolutely no need to do so. Yes, they are professionals
in their field, but sharing the road appeared not to be part
of the driver ethic. Less than impressed, I might add. Other
randonneurs shared similar experiences.
After
recovering a bit at Hyde Creek (Km 572.4 @ 3:08
pm) we continued to the most northerly point of this brevet.
The winds were variable by now; low hanging clouds and showers
accompanied us. The weather couldn't quite make up its mind on
what it wanted to do. We plodded on along this 45 km section.
The topography was rolling, which at this time tried to take
a bit of toll on us. We stopped for a few minutes to feed Michael
some EnsurePlus and then things picked-up. Try this for an advertising
jingle: "Brevets go better with EnsurePlus." In Port
Hardy (Km 617 @ 5:50 pm), almost 39 hours after we started,
Michael, Bob, Manfred and I had a sit-down meal. Within an hour
we were heading south. We thought we could smell the barn and
rode at a good pace. We passed a good size black bear. Our return
stop at Hyde Creek (Km 661.6 @ 8:33 pm) was again
short, since we were anxious to stretch daylight as much as possible.
We knew though that it would be pitch dark by the time we'd get
to the next control. Except for our conversations and the soft
hum of the tires, a sound of silence surrounded us. As we moved
up and down a rolling course flanked by tall timbers, the moon
came out, singing its silent serenade. Time for poetry again.
Pretty neat. After what seemed an eternity, finally a lone streetlight
appeared in the distance, marking the Woss turnoff
(Km 721 @ 11:42 pm). Another 339 km covered at a pace of about
17.2 kph, including the breaks. Stella and Sandy signed our cards.
Soon we were sound asleep. That did not take much prodding. Neither
did the alarm sound to get us going again.
Day 3: Woss - Nanaimo (285 km)
The morning was quiet,
a perfect setting for the first kilometers out of Woss, a little
after 4:00 am. There was quite a long climb to get over the hump
for a downer into Sayward. We were wondering if the loaded boat
trailer, the one that lost its wheel on the way up, would still
be parked along the road. It was here that one of us -- who shall
remain nameless - shared a story from long ago. As the owner
of a VW-van, he once picked up hitchhiker. As they were driving
along, one of the wheels came off the van and passed them. Oops!
Without incident the vehicle was brought to a stand-still. The
hiker got out, bid a quick adieu and continued his trip, ungratefully
leaving the driver to find the missing wheel and lugs. The driver
succeeded, but as he continued his trip, who should he see along
the road but the same hiker trying to hitch a ride. With a honk
and a wave the driver passed, thus expressing his appreciation
for the non-assistance. This was definitely worth a good laugh.
Once over the hump we were back at Sayward Jct
(Km 887.1 @ 08:10 am) for breakfast. At Roberts Lake
(Km 819.3 @ 10:57 am) we recounted the picnic tables, to make
sure that nobody had taken one. At the nearby General Store we
enjoyed a delicious home-made ice cream and a Coke, energy for
the upcoming down hill stretch into Campbell River
(Km 851.5 @ 12:57 pm). Somewhere along Peter Noris passed us,
then stopped his Airstream combo to take an action picture. Since
 we
were faster upon him than he could ready his camera, we did a
"dance-de-bicyclette-a-deux".
At
the Campbell River control I took shower, had a change of clothes,
which made me feel like a new rider. On our way to Qualicum
Beach (Km 960.9 @ 8:05 pm), we did stop again in Courtenay
for bite. As we turned on the Island Highway, we saw quite a
few deer. They barely acknowledged us as we took the fast lane
south. We sped up, hoping to beat the oncoming darkness before
Nanaimo (Km 1006.1 @10:40 pm). It did not quite
work, but when we got there I was able to snag a motel room before
the lights went out and "No Vacancies"signs appeared.
Michael had his mobile motel waiting for Peter Noris, fellow
randonneur from previous brevets (BMB, RM1200 and PBP) was supporting
him. The day's distance of 285 km was covered in under 19 hours
at a pace of 15.3 kph. We were slowing down a bit, mainly due
to more frequent and longer breaks.
Day 4: Nanaimo-Victoria (200 km)
Since
we had enough time in hand, we treated ourselves to a few extra
winks, and left close to 5:00 am. As we were about to depart,
who arrives at the control, but Elias Brettler. We chatted for
a bit. He looked very tired, but determined. With this 'never-say-die'
look in his eyes. Elias indicated that he was badly in need of
sleep; he was afraid of nodding off on the busy highway. We suggested
that it was high time to lay down somewhere to get at least 15
minutes of sleep. With 200 km to go he had till nine that night
-- another 16 hours, which at 13 kph would be more than enough
to finish. And he did!! On top it earned him and Paul Johnson
a bottle of red wine. As we left Nanaimo and negotiated a complex
intersection near the junction to the Duke Point ferry terminal,
we met Dean Zimmer. Dean had made an unscheduled detour - read:
wrong turn-off - to Duke Point. This meant a lot of backpedaling
for him. We joined forces and went looking for Duncan. The plan
was to cycle there, which according to Melissa and Scott was
only 30 km south of Nanaimo and where they would spend the night.
If things worked out we could have a breakfast rendez-vous at
Tim Horton's between 6:00 and 7:00 am. Well, things did not quite
work out as planned. First, Melissa had major equipment problems
around midnight, which we did not know about until much later.
Second, it became clear that after 30 km, there was no Duncan;
after 40 km there was no Duncan, and even after 50 km there was
still no Duncan. Where was Duncan? Had it fallen off the map?
No, we did not get lost. (We should have consulted the route
sheet for the distance, but who wants to be bothered by that).
It took some 52 km to reach Duncan, so when we got there it was
after 7:00 am, no Melissa and Scott. We decided too have breakfast
anyway.
We
then set out for the foot of the Malahat in Mill Bay
(Km 1,077.1 @ 8:46 am). The 6 km climb was not all that long,
but given the time of day, we were going sunny side up. This
meant a rather hot climb as the morning sun rays tried to bake
us against the rocks. It was probably the hottest section of
the day and the entire ride. After a stop at the summit, we rapidly
descended down the other side. That was cool and swell. Now it
was back in the fast lane to the Ravine Way control
(Km 1,117.4 @ 11:09 am). Here we were surprised by my wife and
Larry, our family friend. Being only two km from the control,
they decided to meet us and taste a bit of the rando flavour
Her embrace and smile were rather sweet and energizing. I did
have this fleeting thought that this could be construed as pre-arranged
support, then again since (a) it was at a control, and (b) Michael
also received a hug, we were safe in terms of the rules governing
brevets. There were quite a few fellow riders at the control,
the place was buzzing. Melissa and Scott recounted their equipment
failure and their ingenious solution. Bob Koen informed my wife
that he had slept with me in Woss. We could explain it. Although
there were still100 km to go, this control definitely had the
feel of the finish. Since it was not, we crawled back on our
machines. Somewhere on this section, I don't know exactly where,
but Michael suggested that if we cycled a bit faster -- we actually
had to go a lot faster (30 kph+) - he might be able to realize
a PB on this 1,200 km brevet. Now he told me! We tried for awhile,
but then realized that this quest was started a bit too late.
We should have ...., we should ......, yes, there are excuses.
We didn't and that was fine, too.
At the Saanichton
control (Km 1149.2 @ 12:47 pm) we saw that there was no question
to answer, so we made one up: "What would the question be?"
and answered it with "Only Ken knows!" At Land's End
we reached the most northerly point on the Saanich Peninsula,
then turned east, past the ferry terminal and finally south.
"From Land's End to Ken's End" was the slogan now.
At the control in Sidney (Km 1159.0 @ 1:19 pm)
we each bought a cup with fresh strawberries and a chocolate
dip. Michael's PB attempt was toast. We parked our bicycles at
the Sidney Marina, sat down and one after another dipped the
strawberries in the chocolate and then slowly into our mouths.
Delicious and decadent. To us it was Randonneuring in style!
Add to that the magnificent views across the water on the Coast
Mountains and Mount Baker, and the event was just about complete,
except that the ride wasn't over, until we'd cross the finish
line in time. The remainder rolled through a very beautiful part
of Victoria, beautiful homes, gardens and parks. There was one
fly in the ointment, that tiny bastard of a steep hill (inhaling
the fumes of a diesel double-decker accounts for the unparliamentary
language), compensated for by a few equally short and steep descents.
In one of the gardens there were these beautiful bright red Crocosmis
'Lucifer', a very pretty flower, vivid memories of gardens in
the Netherlands. At Mac's (Km 1200.9 @ 3:58 pm)
we got our cards signed one more time, and now it was a mere
sprint to the finish at Ken's Place (Km 1205.7
@ 4:15 pm). Wow. Done!! We were back, 85 hours and 15 minutes
after we left. The last 200 km were covered at a pace of 17.8
kph. We earned our medal, which was celebrated  with
a beer and French cheese A very thoughtful touch. Our hosts,
Ken and his wife, know how to treat randonneurs. Much appreciated.
The next morning we met again at the Bleathering Place for brunch
and post-ride story swap. Thank you's and goodbyes, a wonderful
conclusion to a great event. I was glad that my wife had a chance
to meet many of my rando friends during the VanIsle 1200. Thanks
to Ken and all the volunteers for making this possible. Thanks
Michael (and everyone else) for sharing the experience. It was
a lot of fun. Auf Wiedersehen! We'll see you on the road.
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September 2006 |